Scotland

A Day in Braveheart Land

October 6th, 2021 – October 7th, 2021

Table of Contents

According to the list of 197 countries, the United Kingdom is listed as 1 country, which is how we count them. However, for story purposes, we decided to list each country in the UK as it’s on separate entry.

This was part of our 2021 European Trip, which we started in France. Catch up here before you read on.

Hello Scotland

We drove up from Whitby, a nice 4 hour drive in a tiny Nissan. There were only 2 seats in the back, meaning Emily had to squish between my brother and I. She was not happy. We drove up a good chunk of the Eastern coast of England and even passed through Stockton-on-Tee’s, the birthplace of Emily’s Great Grandfather.

Hours later we hit the Scottish border, and passed the sign designed to look like the Scottish flag. So creative. At first it wasn’t that much different from England, I’m not sure what I was expecting. But the further we drove, the more we came to see that Scottish countryside everyone talks about. Lots of green, stone walls, farms, sheep.

Edinburgh Castle

Just outside of our hotel was Castle Rock, a massive stone that looked over the Edinburgh Old town. Perched on top was the legendary Edinburgh Castle. Built in the 11th Century, this castle has undertaken 26 sieges in its long life, making it one of the most attacked castles in the world.

As the UK was still taking COVID measures seriously, we had to have masks to enter any buildings. Being fully prepared as we always were, we had forgotten ours. Luckily there was a castle gift shop near by where we all bought Tartan designed masks. We were in full blown tourist mode. As if the Scottish didn’t hate us English enough.

It was also here I caught glimpse of Scottish Liquid Gold: Irn Bru. Emily had to try this. I opened it and threw it into her hands like an excited child. She took one sip, made a face and said “Tastes like gasoline”, and forced a smile for the photo. Sorry Scotland.

For the next hour or so, we had a leisurely stroll around the Old Town. Edinburgh is a beautiful city. We came across St Giles’ Cathedral, I think one of the oldest churches I’ve ever seen, originally being constructed in the 12th century.

Whisky and Haggis

We continued walking around the beautiful cobbled streets of Edinburgh Old Town.
That’s when we came across an alley, half hidden in the street, with a sign that promised ‘The best haggis in town’. We walked down this dark, cobbled alley and was popped out at Arcade Bar Haggis and Whiskey House. Whiskey and Haggis? We were already feeling Scottish.

Inside, a wall filled with all types of Whiskey dominated the room. A chalk board labelled the ‘Whiskey of the Week’, Kirkerraw. A warm, Canadian bartender studying at Edinburgh University welcomed us and gave us Whiskey recommendations. Emily, my Dad, and I all got a glass each. I went with the Whiskey of the Week, my dad had a Bowmore 12 Year and Emily a Bunnahabbhain 12 Year.

That’s when the Haggis came. The National Dish of Scotland. Now Haggis doesn’t sound particularly appetizing, at all. Everyone, including me, was hesistant about it. My Mum in particular was very against trying it. And who could blame her? It was Sheep liver, heart, and lungs minced and mixed with fat and oatmeal, then boiled in a sheep stomach. Doesn’t really sound appetizing. And here it stood on our plate, like a pile of ground beef sitting on top of some Neeps and Tatties and in a pool of Whiskey Sauce.

However, just one bite of it was one of the most expectation blowing moments of my life. A savory, mouth filling meat taste with a hint of gaminess. It was tender and juicy. I went back in with a spoonful of the Whiskey Sauce this time. Wow. Thick, oaky, slightly acidic. It added a new dimension to the Haggis. I went in one last time with the Haggis, sauce, and Tatties all on my spoon. One of the best, single bites of food I have ever had.

Here I was, exploring a new place, trying a new food with all the people I loved in life. Emily, my Mum, Dad, and Brother. It was a happy, happy time.

A Night in Edinburgh

My parents share our love for breweries. In fact, they definitely are the reason for our obsession. Because of this, we had to go to a local joint. Edinburgh is famous for a quite a few of its breweries, but most notably is Innis & Gunn Brewing, who distributes its beers globally.

We entered through the old, green building which resembled an Irish pub more than a Scottish brewery. Inside was an enormous, dimly lit taproom, decked out with a giant letter board detailing many different beers.

We had a couple, but my favorite was the Caribbean Rum Cask, a dark rum flavored ale. Fantastic.

Original – Ale – 3.25 / 5
Mangoes on the Run – IPA – 4.0 / 5
Caribbean Rum Cask – Ale – 5.0 / 5

After a good laugh, my Dad demanded we go to The Hanging Bat, a nearby pub. After a couple of Innis & Gunn brews, I was ready for food. I ordered a meal that I knew would warm my soul: Beer Cheese Mac & Cheese with Haggis. Was it good? Probably not. But it just felt right.

Bellies full, an Uber was called and we made our way back to our hotel for the night, DoubleTree by Hilton Edinburgh City Centre. We set our alarm for early morning, and woke up to the most beautiful view from our room, a sunrise over Edinburgh Castle.

Destroyed Castles and Aptly Named Lochs

We drove back through the center of Scotland and passed by the town of Lochmaben.

To get here, we first passed through Lockerbie. This small town had caught national attention when in 1988 terrorists blew up a passenger plane, killing 270 people and landing in the middle of Lockerbie.

Why were we here? We were here because it was it was the site of the only castle on our route back to England.

Lochmaben Castle sat at the southern edge of the creatively named Castle Loch. The castle was beyond any reconstruction and almost fully ruined. Built in the 13th century, this now pile of rocks had seen it’s fair share of historical figures and battles. From Edward I to Mary Queen of Scots, so much history had occurred at this forgotten site. It was rainy, muddy and surrounded by broken chain-link fence, yet years ago many people had lived and died here.

We trekked through the muddied, overgrown trail in misty rain until the Loch appeared. A short, almost broken, wooden dock pointed out over the water.

We stood out and looked over the water. Scotland had been a great, 24 hour excursion. We’d seen legendary historical sites, walked down old, beautiful streets, eaten probably the greatest national dish we’d had to date, and drank good beer. But, most importantly, I’d done it all with my family. The joys I get from visiting new places or trying new dishes with Emily, I now got to share with my family, and seeing their happiness and sharing laughs with them as we did it together are memories I’ll happily hold on to forever.